Preheat and prep: Preheat the oven to 325°F (165°C).
Make sure your tube pan is completely ungreased. Any grease will prevent the cake from climbing the sides.
Mix dry ingredients: In a large bowl, whisk cake flour, 3/4 cup sugar, baking powder, and salt until evenly combined.
Make the yolk mixture: In a separate bowl, whisk egg yolks, oil, milk, vanilla, lemon juice, and zest (if using) until smooth and slightly frothy.
Combine wet and dry: Pour the yolk mixture into the dry ingredients. Whisk gently until just smooth.
Don’t overmix—stop when no dry streaks remain.
Beat egg whites: In a clean, dry bowl, add egg whites and cream of tartar. Beat on medium speed until foamy, then gradually add the remaining 1/4 cup sugar. Increase to medium-high and beat to soft, glossy peaks that hold their shape but have a gentle curl at the tip.
Fold in the meringue: Add one-third of the whipped whites to the yolk batter.
Fold gently with a spatula to lighten. Add the rest in two more additions, folding with slow, sweeping motions from the bottom up. Avoid deflating the batter.
Fill the pan: Pour batter into the tube pan.
Use a skewer or thin knife to swirl through the batter once or twice to pop large air pockets. Smooth the top.
Bake: Bake for 50–60 minutes, until the top is golden and springs back lightly when touched, and a skewer inserted near the center comes out clean or with a few moist crumbs.
Invert to cool: Remove from the oven and immediately invert the pan onto a bottle or pan feet. Cool completely upside down for at least 1 1/2 hours. This prevents collapse and keeps the crumb fluffy.
Release the cake: Run a thin knife around the sides and center tube.
Lift the cake out with the removable bottom, then run the knife under the base to release.
Serve: Slice with a serrated knife using a gentle sawing motion. Serve plain, dusted with powdered sugar, or with whipped cream and fresh berries.